On quiet streets where old ghosts meet
I see her walking now…
- From “Raglan Road”
Thirty years ago amid the dust, spilled beer and laughter of my misspent youth there were far too many “she’s,” but when it comes to memory only one “her.”
The “she’s” were young and comely, teasing and, sometimes, pleasing. They were nurses and artists, MICA students and bar maids. Season to season, the names, hair styles and color, body styles and life stories varied, but the friendly flirtations across tables, the “gift” pitchers of beer and shared songs remained unchanged. In memory, their individual faces have long faded into one almost forgotten memory of “them.”
But, the “her” is someone who will remain a part of my being as long as I breathe. She was not a lover. Not even close. She was far more, far more than that often brief interlude that burns so fiery and then extinguishes just as quickly. And now that “her” memory has been re-awakened, it’s time to tell at least part of her story as I knew it.
NOSTALGIA IS “IN” FOR BALTIMORE
With the passing of Burke’s Café and the closing of Werner’s on Redwood Street earlier this spring, nostalgia for a long lost Baltimore has been fodder for Baltimore’s older writers. The uniquely “Bawlamore” institutions of our youth are gone. In their place chains, franchises and Royal Farm Stores sprout.
But my memories were sparked by a new beginning, at least one for my youngest son, Jake, who started a job at the Mount Vernon Stable on North Charles Street. He’s home from Temple University for the summer. And thanks to the intervention of his sister-in-law, Shana, that’s where he landed to work.
So, last week, I found myself in the 900 block North Charles Street, Baltimore, at 1 A.M., a place and a time where once my presence was ubiquitous. It jarred me as I sat in the quiet of the early morning to realize that it had been 25 years since I was last in that same block at that same hour. After all, for nearly a decade before my last nocturnal visit there I had spent many hours after leaving The Sun’s city desk at the end of my shift in that very spot at what to me (and many, many others) was Baltimore’s most unusual saloon.
“Once upon a time there was a tavern,” is the old Russian folk song and it came rushing back to me then. Somewhere before “we were young and sure to have our way,” I was transported to Baltimore circa 1977-78, the winter the Chesapeake Bay froze, an ice age that I survived by thawing out nightly at that fabled drinking establishment.
In my mind, I stood just at the top of the 3 steps at the front of the more than slightly dumpy, 3-story end of row brick townhouse where a sign invited “Come in” and the name carved in a wooden sign above read, “Peabody Book Shop.” A slightly smaller carving to the right of the name added the legend, “Beer Stube.”
Transported in my mind back to a time when I still had two legs, I bounded down those steps and entered a separate universe of ancient, mostly worthless volumes of arcane and long out of interest lore.
To the right I saw the ageless Charles Lancaster, beard askew, eyes bright, with pipe and porter bottle. A smile, a turn of the head and Charles continued “managing” the establishment from his perch overlooking the crammed bookcases, piles of paper, streams of cheap costume jewelry more overpriced than the gaudiest pawn shop faux diamonds, faded photographs and the ever present century of dust that layered all of it.
Now I had a choice.
I could maneuver through the narrow path that had been carved from the overflowing piles of “second hand” items for sale (in truth most looked 8th, 9th or even 10th hand and had long ago lost their value for any but the homeless or those too drunk to notice) and make my way to the first floor bar.
And what a dingy place that was. Cold stone floors with a small, ancient kitchen to the left and a piano that may have been carved in the golden age of Steinway, but obviously not from that famous house, was halfway down that left wall. A long-stuffed buzzard sat precariously on an unlighted chandelier, a 100 millimeter cigarette jauntily hanging from its beak.
The lure of the first floor bar was a walk-in fireplace so huge that the heat singed the hair of those who sat at tables 10 feet away. No frozen winter, not even one so fierce that it could freeze the Bay so solid that folks walked over it, could chill the warmth of this room.
But the real warmth came from the entertainers. For the Peabody ground floor was a magic land of smiling elves and ancient sorcerers.
There was “Dantini The Magnificent,” a bent over, white bearded, aging Gandolf, who claimed to have known the legendary Houdini. Night after night, Dantini would perform his act of the Chinese rings and other low-level magician tricks. He then passed the hat.
Though the young and the stupid sometimes mocked Dantini behind his back, there was something there beyond an old man’s fading skills and the magic of another era that had long ago lost its allure for those who grew up in the television generation. Once, I stood behind him quietly as he prepared to go on stage, and I heard him return his young audience’s lack of respect with words that actually chilled me at the time.
“Magic. I’d scare the pants off of them if I showed them real magic,” he told himself. Somehow I think he could have too.
The other fixture of the first floor was Max, the Gypsy violinists, a short, bald as a cue ball musician, who filled the room with Strauss Waltzes, Polish Polkas, Irish folk songs and just about any music ever written by a human.
Max claimed he never forgot a customer’s personal song. Certainly, night after night if I entered his first floor domain, he would spot me and break into my favorite request. But, that was easy. I was a regular.
Then in the late 70’s, I was witness to an astonishing feat of memory. Early on a weekend evening, a man probably in his 60’s stepped into the first floor bar. He looked at Max. Max looked back, did a sort of double take and then fiddled up a tune I’d never heard. The new arrival then did his version of a double-take and began crying.
As the story unfolded, the unknown visitor had been stationed in Baltimore during World War II. In the 1940’s he frequented establishments, including at least one where Max played and he often requested that song. Before the war ended, he shipped out and he had not been back to the city in nearly 35 years.
Cheers might have been “the place where everybody knows your name,” but only the Peabody had Max, who knew “everybody’s song.”
OR A DIFFERENT ROUTE TO CHOOSE…
Or had my whim been different, I could have carefully mounted the windy, narrow, shaky staircase that led to the Peabody’s second floor bar, a different planet from downstairs. In an airy, high-ceilinged “Swiss Chalet” layout, the upstairs was “clubby clean,” with a pool table, dart board, long bar. Of course, it had a piano player too. There “El Duko” sang nightly of his “Thrills on Blueberry Hill” and the relatively low noise levels allowed for serious conversation or what passed as serious as reporters, editors, college professors and others increasingly slurred their words as the night got later.
This was a famous drinking spot. In the early 1970’s a drinking writer had managed to wander across the United States partaking of thousands of pubs, saloons, speakeasies and stills. He tried fancy restaurants and run down gin mills. He then compiled a list and wrote the book, “America’s 100 Greatest Watering Holes.”
The Peabody Beer Stube was listed as the 3rd Best Bar in the country.
The mistress of this domain was the indomitable Rose Boyajjian Smith Pettus Hayes, Baltimore’s bundled up version of “Auntie Mame,” “Second Hand Rose” and “The Unsinkable Molly Brown” in one tightly wound, extremely formidable woman.
Rose was not human. She was a force of nature.
As a teenager, Rose arrived in Baltimore with $8 in her pocket in the 1950’s. When she died of breast cancer 30 some years later, she owned the Peabody, the historic Brexton Hotel/Apartments, 1,000 apartment units, a farm in Carroll County and had $200,000 in cash stashed in her apartment above the bar.
Of Armenian descent, Rose proved the ancient Middle Eastern business adage that “ A Greek can outwit an Egyptian, an Arab can out bargain the Greek, a Jew can get the better of the Arab, but only the devil can outsmart an Armenian.” With guile, guts and native intelligence she built a mini-empire.
Along the way, she collected 5 husbands, including one sent to jail for a failed bank robbery.
Rose also collected people, picking up the weak, the hurt, the helpless and giving them a place to stay, money, even a job to tide them over until they could get back on their feet. I saw her time and again slipping money to drunks or telling scared young runaway girls to go up to the Brexton and ask for so and so and they’d have a place to shower and sleep for the night.
The Peabody Bookshop was Rose’s personality. She was a “hoarder” before that term became so popular it spawned 3 TV “Reality” shows. Her office, desk and even her apartment had years of paper, money, clothes and old junk piled high. And the bar was the same way. She never seemed to get rid of people, even those who had long ago lost their usefulness to her.
I remember the night that a group of reporters and editors had taken over the upstairs bar and were about to inhale a few pitchers of beer and a quite obviously drunk out of his mind, obviously homeless man lurched to the table.
“I bet you a pitcher of beer I can chug that pitcher of beer without taking a breath,” he announced to our astonishment and laughter. It was a pretty big pitcher. We figured we couldn’t lose. But there were two concerns—he was drunk already and could pass out or he’d lose and we’d lose a pitcher of beer because he couldn’t pay for a replacement.
So, we asked “What will you do, if you can’t chug it down in one gulp?”
With pride, this scruffy-bearded fellow in a shirt so covered in grease and grime that it had turned from yellow to black and torn pants pulled himself to full height of about 5’ 7’’ and said, “I’ll play the piano free for the rest of the night.”
Collectively the table lost its judgment and agreed to the bet. And we then watched in amazement as this man started on this pitcher like he was swallowing an oyster. The beer drained fast and the flow was uninterrupted until with just a few more swallows left, he had to come up for air. We had won the bet, but what had we won?
Stumbling to the piano, our “losing drinker” loosened up his fingers and then began to play the most beautiful piano music I had ever heard (and have heard until this day.) He was Arthur Rubenstein, Van Cliburn or the ghost of Franz Liszt! Who was this guy?
His name was Gene Ostrawski and his story was a modern tragedy. He’s been a professor at Julliard, but had turned to alcohol after his wife and kids were killed in a fire. Terminated for drunkenness, unable to hold a job, he’d wandered the East Coast until the hint of a warm fire on a very cold night gave him the courage to push open the doors of the Peabody.
He wasn’t just a good piano player. Was a classical musician with the world as his repertoire.
Gene stopped drinking that night. Rose cleaned him up. Got him new clothes. Gave him an apartment and told him he had a job as a piano player and part-time maintenance helper if he wanted it and if he’d stop drinking.
He stayed at the Peabody playing the piano until the day Rose died.
GHOSTS IN A PARKING LOT
The Peabody Bookshop is no more. The building was torn down to make way for a parking lot after Rose died. But even 25 years after that, I still find it hard to believe that Rose is dead at all, so vivid are the memories.
The Irish have a greeting, “May you never die and may I live forever.” When I knew her, I thought that Rose was the one person who could live forever. Even as the breast cancer that killed was eating away at her, she was still full of life. Until just weeks before her death, she was taking a train to New York once or twice a week for acting lessons—a new venture that implied life would not end soon.
So as I faced the parking lot with “Once Upon A Time” swirling in my mind, I realized I had come face to face with my own “Raglan Road.” The ghosts of Rose Pettus walked through the parking lot, looking for people to help or customers to woo or publicity possibilities.
And I found myself silently wishing that Rose had, indeed, lived forever.